12.10.2011 - 17.10.2011 28 °C
After a 20 minute boat ride from Bodrum,Turkey we arrived in Kos, Greece. It's a small island, about 1.5 hours drive from one end to the other and fairly sparsely populated, except for the main area where the tourist come in, there you'll find bars, shopping, pubs, restaurants. We booked accommodation down the end of the island in Kefalos. So 50 Euros later in a taxi we arrived at our destination, a quiet area of the island that seemed to draw in retirees for a holiday. Our accommodation looked nothing like the picture and after having a whole apartment to ourselves our new accommodation was old by comparison and a little cramped. It did have an electric plug in stove top to cook on, but it was very rusted and by the second day, when I turned it on it would short out the power for the whole block of units including the owners house out the back near our room. The owner didn't speak a word of English except hello and sorry, but she was a real grandma type and fed us fresh melon from her garden almost everyday. The extended family seemed to live at the hotel and in part of the back house too and every night there would be a BBQ and loud talking or babies crying until midnight. There was a little dirt area tough jutted into the hill that had a couple if tables and pine trees where we would grab a couple of drinks from the local super market and some chips and relax, listening to the pine trees in the breeze and looking out to the island in the ocean ahead. Kefalos seemed to often have a cool breeze that took the edge of the heat.
Food around kefalos was quite cheap and the Greek salad would be served with no less than half a block of fetta on top, uncut. Ever salad I had, I would take home the extra cheese and pop it in the fridge for later. All the residential houses and some of the hotels had at least a couple of tomato bushes growing if not a plantation and a few melons. The tomatoes tasted great, unlike any others I've ever had. So sweet and juicy and plump. Must be something about the climate there and the red onions also tasted different, sweet and juicy, not hot at all. The local drinks were retsina which I think is made from pine resin, it's about 11% alcohol and tastes a bit like a truly awful white wine, but once you realize that it's not supposed to be wine and what it is made from, it tastes ok, like a piney scented dry white.
The highlight of kefalos was walking along the beach which is lined with family owned cafes and deck chairs for rent, turning the bent and stumbing across some ancient ruins, unsigned, just standing there on the beach. Parts of the floor still were covered up with pebbles and sand but underneath was mosaic flooring, I scraped some sand off with my shoes and feeling like a treasure hunter more mosaics were uncovered. I would've liked to stay there all week and uncover the lot but something felt naughty about just digging it up with out being supervised by an archeologist. Across kefalos there were a handful of half finish buildings that could not be completed because when foundations were being dug, ruins were found and apparently all further building in that area must cease if ruins are located beneath the soil.
A week in kefalos was long enough to see the sights, it's a sleepy village with not a lot to do, you can hire beach buggies to explore the island but we saved that for our next stop... Santorini.